Unearthing the Roman Soul of Barcelona: A Visit to MUHBA - Via Sepulcral Romana
A Quiet Corner Where Barcelona’s Ancient Past Comes to Life
Barcelona, with its dynamic blend of modernist architecture, medieval alleyways, and cosmopolitan flair, often overshadows the quieter echoes of its Roman origins. Yet, it was a Roman outpost long before it became the vibrant city we know today. While strolling through the bustling streets near La Rambla and Plaça Catalunya, I stumbled upon an extraordinary remnant of this ancient past: the MUHBA Via Sepulcral Romana, nestled within the Plaça de la Vila de Madrid.
At first glance, the square is unassuming, surrounded by elegant façades typical of Ciutat Vella. But it harbours a treasure trove—a Roman necropolis from the 1st to the 3rd centuries AD. This site was uncovered during the 1950s when the city was rebuilding after the Spanish Civil War. The land, once home to the convent of Santa Teresa de les Carmelites, revealed its secret after the convent was destroyed by a fire during the bombings of 1936. What lay beneath was a hauntingly preserved slice of Barcino, Barcelona’s Roman predecessor.
The necropolis is a window into a world that saw death as a passage, not an end. Roman law dictated that cemeteries be built outside the city walls, forming a kind of procession along the roads leading into the city. The seventy tombs arranged here are a testament to this practice, their forms varying from rounded cupae to urns and stelae. A raised walkway allows visitors to peer into these stone remnants of lives long past, imagining the rituals and beliefs that shaped their construction.
Adding to the square’s charm is a marble sculpture by Lluís Montané, a graceful homage to Francisco de Goya’s paintings of the Majas. Nearby, a modest plaque commemorates the victims of the Madrid terrorist attack on March 11, 2004, blending layers of history—ancient and modern—in one poignant location.
The MUHBA Via Sepulcral Romana isn’t just an archaeological site; it’s a profound reminder of how cities grow, layering new identities over old foundations. The juxtaposition of Roman tombs, 19th-century architecture, and a bustling 21st-century cityscape creates a unique tapestry. For those willing to pause their hurried explorations of La Rambla, this square offers a rare opportunity to connect with Barcelona’s earliest days.
In a city often celebrated for its vibrancy, the Plaça de la Vila de Madrid stands as a quiet, reflective space—a gateway to the past, right in the heart of the present.
Barcelona is a treasure trove of history. Thank you for sharing this fascinating detail of an unassuming part of the city!