A Sweet and Spectacular Carnival: From the Arrival of the King in Sitges to the Wild Merengue War in Vilanova
From Sitges’ Royal Arrival to Vilanova’s Sweet Battle
Carnival season is alive and well in Catalonia, and whether you’re in the vibrant streets of Sitges or the historic town of Vilanova i la Geltrú, the festivities are impossible to miss. From the colourful parades to the wild traditions, these celebrations promise to leave you with unforgettable memories. If you’re wondering where to experience the most unique Carnival moments, both Sitges and Vilanova offer an experience like no other.
The Arrival of the King in Sitges: A Carnival Spectacle
If you find yourself in Sitges, the Carnival spirit is already buzzing through the streets. From the elaborate costumes to the fresh botifarra d’ou sausages sold at market stalls, the town is alive with excitement. One of the most anticipated moments of the festival? The Arrival of the King, which happens at 7:15 PM on Thursday, February 27.
The Carnival King will parade through the iconic streets of Sitges, moving from Fragata, Passeig de la Ribera, Bonaire, Parellades, Cap de la Vila, Major, and finally arriving at the Town Hall. This is where the King takes control of the village for the duration of the event, setting the stage for the wild and colourful celebrations to follow. The streets will be filled with extravagant costumes, music, and vibrant energy. It’s the perfect way to dive into the spirit of Carnival before the night’s more adult festivities begin at midnight.
While the late-night events are legendary, if you’re like me and prefer an earlier start, watching The Arrival of the King gives you the chance to experience the excitement without staying up too late. It’s the ideal way to immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere of Sitges Carnival—where costumes, music, and festivity fill the air.
The Merengue War of Vilanova i la Geltrú: A Sweet Carnival Tradition
Meanwhile, just a short distance away in Vilanova i la Geltrú, Carnival traditions are just as rich and unique. This historic festival isn’t just about costumes and parades—it’s also home to one of the sweetest (and messiest) traditions in all of Catalonia: La Merengada, also known as the Merengue War.
This tradition has its roots in a spontaneous event that took place in 1972 at the local bakery, Pastisseria Blanch. For Carnival, the bakery placed a giant meringue outside, inviting children to smudge their faces with the sugary confection. What started as a fun, impromptu activity quickly escalated as other bakeries joined in, and soon, a citywide merengue route was born. Walking through town became a risky sport where getting hit by a faceful of meringue was nearly guaranteed.
Today, the Merengue War is one of the most anticipated parts of Vilanova’s Carnival. The festival kicks off with the children’s Merengada at 5:30 PM in front of Pastisseria Blanch. Kids (ages 5 to 12) engage in a joyful meringue fight, and after, locals gather for the traditional Xatonada, a meal featuring xató, a winter salad with romesco sauce. But the real chaos begins at midnight when the adult version of the Merengada takes over in Plaça del Mercat. The battle continues until the meringue runs out, with participants—both young and old—covered head to toe in sugary white foam.
For first-timers, it’s recommended that they come prepared: wear a raincoat, shoes they won’t mind ruining, and clothes they’re happy to get messy. By the end of the night, the entire town is coated in meringue, laughter, and sweet chaos.
A Carnival That Survived Franco
The Carnival of Vilanova i la Geltrú is also a symbol of resilience. Unlike many other Spanish towns, which ceased their Carnival celebrations under Franco’s regime, Vilanova continued its traditions, making this festival a stand-in for joy, rebellion, and defiance. Along with the Merengada, the Carnival includes Les Comparses (Carnival Sunday), where thousands parade through the streets waving colourful handkerchiefs and engaging in a candy battle. There’s also L’Arribada, a satirical parade featuring King Carnestoltes, who offers witty critiques of the current events. And of course, L’Enterrament de la Sardina (The Burial of the Sardine) marks the end of the festivities on Ash Wednesday, ushering in Lent.
A Celebration Like No Other
Whether you’re in Sitges or Vilanova, Catalonia’s Carnival offers something for everyone. From the grandeur of the Arrival of the King in Sitges to the sweet chaos of the Merengue War in Vilanova, you’re sure to find a tradition that speaks to your sense of adventure. These celebrations are about more than just costumes and parades—they’re about resilience, community, and the joy of letting loose.
So, whether you’re watching the King take control in Sitges or stepping into a sugary battlefield in Vilanova, one thing is certain: Carnival in Catalonia is an experience you won’t want to miss. Would you dare to step into the sweetest battle in Catalonia, or are you ready to witness the grand spectacle of the King’s arrival? Either way, this Carnival season promises memories that will last a lifetime.